At a time when fall is beginning to show its true colors in our – northern – part of the world, spring’s just getting started in the southern hemisphere. So why not pack up and head to Australia? Who could say no to a chance to see Sydney, try some amazing food in some amazing restaurants and sip some wonderful Australian wines? And a bonus: There are all the fantastic beaches.
I had never been to the Australian continent before, but a few months ago, I decided to finally go for a trip. To be frank, after seeing the life there, I really regret not going before. Sydney is a terrific city whose coastal crowds and bridges carried echoes of San Francisco and Istanbul for me. When you sit on the shore, it’s easy to see most of the other side. It’s a city that shows two sides: There’s the beauty of the view by night, and then there’s the completely different beauty of the view by day. And of course, everyone already knows about the city’s icon and modern architectural marvel, the Sydney Opera House.
I absolutely loved Australia, and I can honestly say that, if I were to come to the world once more, I’d want to be born in Sydney. Because modern Australia only has a history of around 200 years, there’s no sign of the “historical monuments” that we are used to – what you would call a “must see” place is 160 years old at most. But set among all this newness is Sydney and its beauty. Perhaps the thing about Sydney that grabbed my attention the most was the fantastic beaches that surround the city. Wherever you are, a beach – and the accompanying chance to go for a swim – are never more than three to five minutes away by car or 15 minutes by bicycle. From October to May, when the Northern Hemisphere goes into the doldrums of fall and winter, the Australian continent enjoy spring and summer. The beaches are wonderful, while the oceans are deep-blue and clean as be; in fact, it seems that they’re almost beckoning you to come. The ocean might be a bit intimidating for those more used to seas as their go-to body of water, but don’t worry, and it’s perfectly fine. And when you remember that its winter or fall back home, it’s eminently wonderful to jump into the water at such a time. You certainly can’t take a dip in the Atlantic in Portugal, Spain, Britain or France at the same time – you’d freeze to death. And while Australia is known for its surfing, there are other inviting beaches where the water is almost pool-like because of breakwaters – and there’s no worries about sharks to boot. The whole place is pervaded by an atmosphere in which people constantly seem to be on holiday, only going to work when they tire of the sea and sun. It’s a place where the prices are more than reasonable.
Michelin doesn’t publish a guide for Australia, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t expensive restaurants here. Apart from these, however, you shouldn’t steer clear of other excellent restaurants where you can also sample delightful food. For one, Australia is a place where you can find any type of cuisine. More than that, everything is extremely fresh and abundant; the variety of seafood is also out of this world, while agriculture is also highly developed. When you look at it, Australia is actually as big as Europe, but with just a fraction of the population, meaning there’s more than enough to go around for everyone. The people, too, are cheerful and social – if you happen to make eye contact with someone on the street, they’ll immediately say hello. Ultimately, Australia has a profoundly easygoing nature to it that immediately seeps into your bones – especially if you want to escape from the cold winter months in the Northern Hemisphere. But of course, it would be impossible to come here and not sample some of the excellent food on offer. And in terms of choosing where to go, there could be no better advice than that of Mehmet Gürs, a chef whose Mikla in Istanbul has been named one of the world’s 100 best restaurants for years (it’s risen to number 44, to be exact). Like many of the chefs on the list, Gürs has been invited to showcase his skills in other countries; and because Australia has frequently come calling in his case, Gürs has cooked food at award-winning restaurants in Melbourne and Sydney. However, I wonder if his interest in surfing also has something to with his selection of these restaurants. In any case, he knows every one of the Australian restaurants on the top 100 list, having cooked at them all. Furnished with his recommendations, we set off to dine, making our reservations – sometimes of our own accord and sometimes with his assistance.
AUTOMATA
Automata is located about 15 to 20 minutes outside the city in an area that’s largely home to university students. The street features about 20 or 30 restaurants in close proximity to each other in area where students meet, enjoy a drink (alcoholic or otherwise), converse, have fun or just plain hang out. Automata is a two-floor establishment that sits 50 people and serves both lunch and dinner, although the prices are the same for both. The eatery, which also has an open kitchen, boasts an easygoing atmosphere in which you eat your food at long, shared wooden tables. There are set menus for both lunch (three to five courses) and dinner (five to seven courses). There might not be any alternative to the set menu, but they do have a different set menu every day and often offer international fare and fusion dishes. The prices are also extremely reasonable. At the same time, Australian wines are quite famous – as you are no doubt aware. It’s something that you really see at Automata, where you’ll be spoiled for choice among the many excellent wines. The best thing about the restaurant is that they serve wine by the glass, meaning you get a chance to try many of the diverse number of wines they offer. Because we arrived in Australia early in the morning, we elected to combine our breakfast with lunch, enjoying a three-course meal on Automata’s lower floor. The fish and vegetable dishes that we had were quite light (after all, we had to think about dinner later), while we topped our meal off with a glass each of unfiltered Australian wine – white, of course. But if I come again, my mission would be to try Automata’s seven-course dinner.
BENNELONG
Bennelong is located within the most Australian of symbols, the Sydney Opera House, a masterpiece that evokes shells and includes concert, opera and theater halls. One of the shells that overlook the city belongs to Bennelong, giving the restaurant 15-meter-high ceilings and an impressive ambiance. The lights of Sydney, the beauty of the city’s Bosphorus-style port area and the main bridge add even more to the atmosphere. Between 8 and 10 p.m., however, it’s a tall order trying to find a place to sit at Bennelong. Along with some friends, I planned to have something to eat at the restaurant before heading to a concert elsewhere in the opera house – that’s why we started at 6, enjoying a menu featuring a starter, main course and dessert. And in sampling what everyone else in the group had, we got a better idea about what Bennelong’s kitchen is all about. If, however, you happen to come for dinner between 10 and 12, it might be better to go with the à la carte menu. In addition to Australian wines, Bennelong also serves wines from around the world – all of which are contained in a wine menu that’s as thick as a telephone book. Consumed in the company of excellent Australian wine and a breathtaking view, our meal here was easily the best I had on the continent. The ambiance was superb, as was the service. It was an evening that will live long in the memory, in part thanks to the wide menu, table layout, wine glasses, presentation, serving dishes and attention of the three sommeliers. And even then, despite all this elegance, the price was more than reasonable. Of course, your bill might come a bit more “padded” depending on the wine you choose…
CONCRETE JUNGLE
Concrete Jungle is a very basic and plain restaurant. Set on the same street as Automata, Concrete Jungle is a breakfast place whose seating arrangement spills out onto the street somewhat. Naturally, we went for breakfast, but we also had a chance to cast an eye over its lunch and dinner menus, which are mostly vegan. It’s clear to all concerned that healthy eating is at the forefront of Concrete Jungle’s concept, what with its chia pudding, omelets made with egg whites, oat varieties, fruit and vegetable juices and different types of coffees. Ultimately, in the most famous of Sydney breakfast spots, we enjoyed a rather fine and healthy meal. I went for a hazelnut chia pudding decorated with banana, kiwi, and papaya, as well as an omelet with egg whites, avocado, dried tomatoes and goat cheese. After that, it was time for dessert; in my case, an açai pudding with grated coconut. On the other hand, my daughter opted for coconut juice served in full coconut before eating the fruit itself. More than that, the bill for these mostly vegan delights wasn’t even that high, totaling much the same as it would back home in Istanbul’s Cihangir neighborhood.
ESTER
About 20 minutes out of town is a fantastic place for dinner, Ester, which features wooden tables and an easygoing vibe. This was abundantly clear from the fact that we had to wait for our table even though we arrived in time for our reservation. I really wish they had had a bar in the corner for those waiting for their table. In the end, however, we were able to sit at a nice table and order from the à la carte menu. And, as always, we sampled some of each other’s food for a great dinner that included (for me) shellfish and Kobe steak (for my guests). Ester only serves Australian wines. Still, they offer a wide list of normal and organic wines served by the glass.
FISH MARKET
You can reach Sydney’s fish market, which opens bright and early at 5 in the morning and closes at 5 in the evening, by car or ferry on the weekends. It’s a covered fish market that resembles many similar markets around the world, but that’s where the similarities end. That’s because there’s a place to cook your fish next to every fish seller. That means you can buy your fresh fish and take it home or you can dig into a cooked version right there. Best of all, however, you can choose a combination of fish and get them to cook it right in front of you. There’s no seating at the market, but you can perch at the bar – something that doesn’t detract from the eating experience.
About 90 percent of the fish on sale here is local seafood, and you’ll understand whether it’s an import from the attached label. Ultimately, all of Sydney’s fish flows through here; it’s where all the hotels, restaurants and inhabitants procure their fish from. Of course, the earlier you come (it’s also less crowded on a weekday), the more choice you’ll have. The early bird, for instance, will have his or her choice of marinated fish, sashimi or sushi. Really, the market spoils you for choice. My favorite was the langoustine, a kind of small lobster, which was great on the grill. In the end, these kinds of places are a godsend, but more than that, the prices are good.
ORGANIC WINE
Organic wines are a big thing in Australia. In organic winemaking, no sulfur – or very little of it – is added to the wine. Naturally, such wine doesn’t last or age well, meaning it must be consumed in one or two years. At the same time, no sulfur means no headache! And because some wines are even made unfiltered, you can even see the particulates in the liquid. As you would expect, it’s an acquired taste, but Australia provides the perfect atmosphere to try. The well-regarded Automata offers a wide selection of organic wines.
SEAFOOD OR MEAT?
The quality of the fish on offer at Australia’s restaurants comes as no surprise, as the country features many delicious types of seafood that are less than common in the Northern Hemisphere. Australians make fantastic cod filets that are just right for the palette. Crayfish, shrimp and lobster are all abundant and eminently delicious. I happened to be in the country during winter, so oysters were right in season, and I certainly wasn’t going to pass up the opportunity to enjoy them. At the same time, meat is not in short supply. Apart from local meat, you can sample variations on Kobe beef – an opportunity made possible by Australia’s relative geographic proximity to Japan.
THE OPERA HOUSE
The Sydney Opera House is truly a marvel of modern architecture. And if you take me up on my suggestion to have a meal at Bennelong, it’ll be easy to head for a concert as well. The big concert hall seats about 3,000 people and has a unique design and seating arrangement. In all, about 2 million people come every year to the Opera House to view around 3,000 performances.