A Couple of Days in the Red City
I’ve been to the city famous for its rain a number of times, but each time, I was on my way somewhere else. One trip, I finally got the chance to give Bologna my full, undivided attention. Lo and behold, it has some great restaurants that you’d do well to look up if you’re ever in the neighborhood.
Until now, I’ve always visited Bologna while transferring to Florence because there are no direct flights to the famous Tuscan city. Bologna is just 90 minutes by car from Florence, while its train station, located very close to the local airport, offers good connections to Modena and Venice.
Indeed, I had traveled through Bologna to Modena to dine at Osteria Francescana, one of the world’s 50 best restaurants. The brief sojourn in Bologna left an impression, and I always thought that I might return to the city someday. Now I have finally visited the city – and I must say I was pleased with my trip.
For these kinds of short trips, however, I would recommend steering clear of one strong meal after another. If I eat a nice, big meal for lunch, then I generally opt for a light dinner – it’s just something that’s good for health. More than that, I believe that eating big meals in quick succession takes away from the pleasure you get out of a meal. But while you’re making your dinner plans, keep in mind that most restaurants are closed on Sunday evenings!
YOU CAN WALK FOR MILES
They call Bologna “The Red City” because most of the city’s buildings are made of red brick. One of the things that left the biggest impression on me was the fact that almost all of the city’s buildings have arcades. With so much rain, these arcades which were mandated by the city authorities long ago on account of the continual deluge from the sky – help you walk for miles without getting a single drop on your head, meaning your sightseeing or shopping can proceed uninterrupted. The arcades are four or five meters wide, providing a great canopy for the pedestrian zone below. Around 85 percent of the buildings in central Bologna have these arcades, although the newer ones are not as nice as the old ones. The arcaded pedestrian ways run for about 12 kilometers, six kilometers of which are closed to vehicle traffic. That means you’ll only get wet when you cross the road. For now, it’s on to the restaurants!
I PORTICI
The hotel I’m recommending in Bologna is I Portici, whose restaurant I also appreciate. I Portici, which has around 40 rooms, is located in an area that is open to vehicular traffic – being able to park right in front of the hotel’s door naturally saves you from the trouble of dragging your suitcase down a long road. The former owner of the building loved music so much that he built a concert salon for 300-400 people that is topped off with a high ceiling. Today, the old concert salon is used as a restaurant, but that doesn’t mean that music has stopped, as there is a piano on the stage where musicians perform every day. I like rooms with high ceilings, so the 8-meter-high ceilings – complete with beautiful frescoes – in the restaurant were positively dazzling. And one last note: The restaurant at I Portici has a Michelin star.
RISTORANTE BITONE ENOTECA
Ristorante Bitone Enoteca is owned by Cesare, who is like a youngster in his 70s. He’s still cooking and has put together an amazing menu. Everything is perfect, from the wine list to the truffle menu. When I went to dine, they had a truffle the size of a fist; that’s not to say that they taste any different than small truffles, although ones as big as this are difficult to find. Restaurants usually opt to serve small truffles since they are more economical, but chef Cesare spares no expense, choosing instead to use big truffles, which, when trimmed, add to the beauty and visual pleasure of the meal. After all, the presentation of a dish is as important as its taste. Interestingly enough, though, the size of the truffles didn’t inflate the bill at all. We went there as two people and ordered pasta with four kinds of truffle, hoping to try each and everyone that had the precious fungus. Chef Cesare, however, had another recipe in mind that we just couldn’t keep ourselves from ordering. That’s why, in the end, we shared five different pasta dishes with truffles.
AL CAMBIO
Al Cambio is located 15 minutes from the city center. Boasting a Michelin star, Al Cambio is a restaurant with a gastronomic menu that you just have to try. The menu consists of seven or eight courses, all of which are wonderful. The list features both meat and fish; I chose the latter and liked it a lot. Meanwhile, I brought my own wine to the restaurant, thinking I wouldn’t be able to find good wine – not only did they allow me to do this, but also they didn’t even add any corkage charges. Furthermore, they had a very good wine list.