There are mushrooms and then there are mushrooms. Deemed one of the world’s most valuable edible fungi, “white truffles” are found in few areas of the world, one of which is Alba, a small town in Italy’s Piedmont region that’s south of Milan. On this front, the word “found” is more than apt, for the white truffle defies cultivation, making it more like a precious metal than a crop.
Every year, truffle lovers descend on Alba, a town that I’ve had the pleasure of visiting seven times in the past. It’s a place I love, so let me share some of my previous experiences with you. You can visit Alba from the beginning of September until January, but the best move is to plan your visit for autumn, particularly in November — that’s when the town hosts its annual White Truffle Fair to coincide with the abundance of truffles. Beware, though, that accommodation fills up fast, so it’s best to book ahead, particularly if you’re planning on seeing the town over the weekend amid the rest of the world’s truffle lovers. But if you’re too late to visit during the height of truffle season, consider March or April, when Alba is also lovely.
LA CIAU DEL TORNAVENTO
La Ciau Del Tornavento has a menu that offers a wide range of truffle dishes. It also boasts a spectacular wine cellar, which allows patrons to enjoy almost every class and taste of Italian and French wines. What makes La Ciau a special treat — particularly for lunch — is its mesmerizing view from atop a hill. If you choose to have a pleasant meal at the restaurant, give my regards to the grand chef Maurilio, who also doubles as the owner of this fine establishment.
PIAZZA DUOMO
One of the town’s most famous and exclusive restaurants is Piazza Duomo. It’s not only Alba’s most famous restaurant, it’s also one of the most expensive restaurants in Italy. Listed as the world’s 29th best restaurant in 2019, it also has three Michelin stars. Piazza Duomo is located on the second floor of a building right in front of the city’s main church. The service might be a bit slow, but there are so many surprising appetizers that you’re likely to spend at least three hours dining. They have an à la carte menu, but I recommend the gastronomical one. Piazza Duomo is open throughout the year, but if you go to the restaurant sometime between October and December, you’ll get the chance to taste the unique white truffle menu.
VILLA D’AMELIA
Villa d’Amelia is the best choice for accommodation, although it also features an excellent restaurant for dinner. In autumn, they have great Porcini dishes and superb white truffle risotto.
A FEW SPECIAL TRUFFLE RECIPES
In the mood for something with truffles? Then here’s a pair of simple recipes. If you want to save a bit and opt for cheaper truffles, allow me to recommend summer truffles, which are available between June and September. Before you start, though, make sure you’re ready with a special truffle shaver.
Truffle with Eggs/Truffle Omelette:
Truffles pair best with eggs, which blend well with the fungi’s intense flavor and aroma. Break an egg in a saucepan and heat it up until the white of the egg is well done, but the yolk is still rare. Before serving, sprinkle on good-quality salt. Repeat the process for everyone who’s eating. Once the eggs are on the table, everyone can take the shaver and grate the truffle onto their eggs. Accompany this simple but excellent meal with some freshly baked bread. If you have more guests coming, you can, alternatively, beat 10 eggs and add them to a pan that has been greased with a bit of real truffle oil. But don’t leave it on for too long, as there’s no need for the omelet to be well-done. To add to the aroma, you can add a couple of drops of truffle oil to the plates before serving.
Like the straight egg option before, shave black or white truffles onto the omelet before eating – doing so at the table will intensify the flavor and smell.
Truffle Spaghetti:
Cook some fresh pasta or spaghetti lightly for two or three minutes, whisking it in real truffle oil. Remove the pasta from the heat, allowing everyone to add their own truffle shavings. If the white truffle’s cost of 2000 to 4000 euros a kilo is a bit too rich for your blood, summer truffles cost more inexpensive at 300 euros. The flavor of black truffles is not as intense as the white, but the lower costs mean there will be more shavings to go around for your meal. Once you’ve shaved the truffles so much that you can’t grate them anymore, you can put the leftovers in a jar and add some butter. Keep the jar in the deep freezer so that you can enjoy them whenever you want – after all, that’s what Alba restaurants do when truffles are out of season. Or you may put them in virgin olive oil and create your own real truffle oil.